Industrialization
Technological advances during industrialization brought major
changes to the kitchen. Iron stoves, which enclosed the fire
completely and were more efficient, appeared. Early models
included the Franklin stove around 1740, which was a furnace
stove intended for heating, not for cooking. Benjamin Thompson
in England designed his "Rumford stove" around 1800. This stove
was much more energy efficient than earlier stoves; it used one
fire to heat several pots, which were hung into holes on top of
the stove and were thus heated from all sides instead of just
from the bottom. However, his stove was designed for large
kitchens; it was too big for domestic use. The "Oberlin stove"
was a refinement of the technique that resulted in a size
reduction; it was patented in the U.S. in 1834 and became a
commercial success with some 90,000 units sold over the next 30
years. These stoves were still fired with wood or coal. Although
the first gas street lamps were installed in Paris, London, and
Berlin at the beginning of the 1820s and the first U.S. patent
on a gas stove was granted in 1825, it wasn't until the late
19th century that using gas for lighting and cooking became
commonplace in urban areas.
The urbanization in the second half of the 19th century induced
other significant changes that ultimately would also change the
kitchen. Out of sheer necessity, cities began planning and
building water distribution pipes into homes, and built
canalisations to deal with the waste water. Gas pipes were laid;
gas was used first for lighting purposes, but once the network
had grown sufficiently, it became available also for heating and
cooking on gas stoves. At the turn of the 20th century,
electricity had been mastered well enough to become a
commercially viable alternative to gas and slowly started
replacing the latter. But like the gas stove, the electrical
stove had a slow start. The first electrical stove had been
presented in 1893 at the Chicago world fair, but it wasn't until
the 1930s that the technology was stable enough and began to
take off.
Industrialization also caused social changes. The new factory
working class in the cities was housed under generally poor
conditions. Whole families lived in small one or two-room
apartments in tenement buildings up to six stories high, badly
aired and with insufficient lighting. Sometimes, they shared
apartments with "night sleepers", unmarried men that paid for a
bed at night. The kitchen in such an apartment was often used as
a living and sleeping room, and even as a bathroom. Water had to
be fetched from wells and heated on the stove. Water pipes were
laid only towards the end of the 19th century, and then often
only with one tap per building or per story. Brick-and-mortar
stoves fired with coal remained the norm until well into the
second half of the century. Pots and kitchenware typically were
stored on open shelves, and parts of the room could be separated
from the rest using simple curtains.
In contrast, there were no dramatic changes for the upper
classes. The kitchen, located in the basement or the ground
floor, continued to be operated by servants. In some houses,
water pumps were installed, and some even had kitchen sinks and
drains (but no water on tap yet, except for some feudal kitchens
in castles). The kitchen became a much cleaner space with the
advent of "cooking machines", closed stoves made of iron plates
and fired by wood and increasingly charcoal or coal, and that
had flue pipes connected to the chimney. For the servants the
kitchen continued to serve also as a sleeping room; they slept
either on the floor, or later in narrow spaces above a lowered
ceiling, for the new stoves with their smoke outlet no longer
required a high ceiling in the kitchen. The kitchen floors were
tiled; kitchenware was neatly stored in cupboards to protect
them from dust and steam. A large table served as a workbench;
there were at least as many chairs as there were servants, for
the table in the kitchen also doubled as the eating place for
the servants.
The middle class tried to imitate the luxurious dining styles of
the upper class as best as it could. Living in smaller
apartments, the kitchen was the main room—here, the family
lived. The study or living room was saved for special occasions
such as an occasional dinner invitation. Because of this, these
middle-class kitchens often were more homely than those of the
upper class, where the kitchen was a work-only room occupied
only by the servants. Besides a cupboard to store the
kitchenware, there were a table and chairs, where the family
would dine, and sometimes—if space allowed—even a fauteuil or a
couch.
Gas pipes were laid only in the late 19th century, and gas
stoves started to replace the older coal-fired stoves. Gas was
more expensive than coal, though, and thus the new technology
first was installed in the wealthier homes. Where workers'
apartments were equipped with a gas stove, gas distribution
would go through a coin meter.
In rural areas, the older technology using coal or wood stoves
or even brick-and-mortar open fireplaces remained common
throughout. Gas and water pipes were first installed in the big
cities; small villages were connected only much later.
The trend to increasing gasification and electrification
continued at the turn of the 20th century. In industry, it was
the phase of rationalisation, where work processes were
attempted to be streamlined. Taylorism was born, and time-motion
studies were used to optimize processes. These ideas also
spilled over into domestic kitchen architecture due to a growing
trend that called for a professionalization of household work,
started in the mid-19th century by Catharine Beecher and
amplified by Christine Frederick's publications in the 1910s.
Working class women frequently worked in factories to ensure the
family's survival, as the men's wages often did not suffice.
Social housing projects led to the next milestone: the
"Frankfurt kitchen". Developed in 1926, this kitchen measured
1.9m by 3.4m (approximately 6'2" by 11'2"), with a standard
layout. It was built for two purposes: to optimize kitchen work
to reduce cooking time (so that women would have more time for
the factory) and to lower the cost of building decently-equipped
kitchens. The design, created by Margarete Schütte-Lihotzky, was
the result of detailed time-motion studies and heavily
influenced by the railway dining car kitchens of the period. It
was built in some 10,000 apartments in a social housing project
of architect Ernst May in Frankfurt.
The initial reception was heavily critical: people were not
accustomed to the changed processes also designed by
Schütte-Lihotzky; it was so small that only one person could
work in it; some storage spaces intended for raw loose food
ingredients such as flour were reachable by children. But the
Frankfurt kitchen embodied a standard for the rest of the 20th
century in rental apartments: the "work kitchen". Too small to
live or dine in, it was soon criticized as "exiling the women in
the kitchen", but the post-World War II conservatism coupled
with economic reasons prevailed. The kitchen once more was seen
as a work place that needed to be separated from the living
areas. Practical reasons also played a role in this development:
just as in the bourgeois homes of the past, one reason for
separating the kitchen was to keep the steam and smells of
cooking out of the living room.
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